Melinda's Volvo...

Last updated 25th December, 2002.
Don't blame Melinda for the ugly web page or how the car looks - both are Athol's fault. :-p

Comments so far...
I've got one Porsche 928 owner jealous of the exhaust note, and a long-time drag racer who shakes his head and says that the sound doesn't match the car. :-)
Other people haven't had a chance to comment. They're too busy wondering how they just got thrashed by a Volvo. :-p

front view

From the front it looks like any ordinary 1980 anniversary model, with the US style headlights instead of the big rectangular lights normally used in the Australian models... (yes, I know the bonnet was popped in the photo)
A decent set of halogen conversions and relays makes a world of difference!

rear view

From the rear - notice the lack of exhaust pipe... (and the badges have fallen off :-)

side view

It looks better from the side since I put the 15 inch mags on in place of the original 14s. AU$100 for 4 rims with good tyres!
Yes, that's my parts car in the background

exhaust outlets

You'll need to look just behind the right rear wheel for the exhaust - a twin 2" system
Had a teething problem here - the exhaust was moving just far enough for one muffler to hit the diff pinion yoke on right turns!

engine bay

The bit that most people seem to want to look at - a mild 350 chev with OHG LPG system.
The A/C compressor will go back in the original spot as soon as I get around to making the brackets.
The cold-air induction comes first, though.

engine crossmember

The fabricated engine mount cross member (splash guard removed).
This also shows how the Volvo saginaw power steering pump adapted to the short-waterpump 350

tight fit

One of the few ugly problems with this conversion was getting the exhaust past the steering shaft.
This will have to do until I get extractors made.

diff ready to fit

The Ford 9-inch diff was adapted to use the original axle tubes, suspension and brakes. Here, the 2.47 detroit centre and axles were in, ready to go under the car.
The only problem I had was that the brake pipe bracket was welded to the housing in the wrong spot and I had to make a bracket and mount a second one in the right place, bolted back to the one welded to the housing.

Pictures to come include the diff installed, gearbox mount, cold air induction, speedo cable adapter, etc...

The biggest problem I found was the diff ratio. This car started life as a V6, and had a 3.54 diff ratio. I drove it with this ratio and found that top gear felt like 2nd gear. The Volvo diff is a Dana 30 so the cheapest option for improving the ratio is to use the crown wheel and pinion from a Dana 30, which is found in ratios as tall as 2.73 in some Jeeps - just make sure that it isn't the reverse-rotation version (the pinion should be below the centre of the axles, not above). I tried to source 2.73 locally (Newcastle, Australia) but couldn't get taller than 3.07. The hemispheres on Dana 30 come in 3.54-up and 3.73-down, so if you have lower gears, you'll need to change the hemisphere too. Detroit lockers, LSDs, etc. are available for the Dana 30. Volvo racers swear by the Dana 30, but Jeep people swear AT them, so I'm not sure just how reliable they are...

With an overdrive box such as a Turbo 700, the 3.54 ratio would give an acceptable top gear. If you're buying a gearbox, I'd recommend using a T700. I'd still lean towards about a 3.07 diff ratio.

ute

The Holden ute that I used to have the engine and gearbox and diff in. I re-used the alternator mount, radiator, shroud, etc. from the ute.

Athol (remove _SPIT_SPAM to email)
Melinda (remove _NO_SPAM to email)

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